Baguettes, wine and a lot of cheese!

December 11, 2005,

Hello Mom and Dad,

Okay, here is an update on how things are going here in France. (Note: With the law of conservation of language, since I have been learning French, I have noticed I have been losing English. The grammar and spellings here may need some forgiveness. But, as a wise man probably said, "it is a weak mind that can only spell things one way.)

I arrived in Paris early in the morning three weeks ago. The flight with Air France was good, complete with a choice of wines, movies, and good leg-room. To me, the flights out of Toronto are more than just stepping onto a spaceship to zip across an ocean for an adventure. Knowing that I'll be out for the next year and a bit, is a challenge mentally, and emotionally. That challenge starts well before the plane ticket is bought.

In October, I started considering when to go and what timeline it should all take. I took the whole summer off, and was starting to feel like it really was time to start moving, and start working. I do like my work and the awareness of the world around us it brings. I was missing that, so I picked a time to get over to France to start learning French before signing another contract.

Once the date is set, and a ticket bought, a scary reality sets in, I'm going; and I don't know what that will mean, but I'm going.

There is a rush beforehand, an organized scramble to get everything ready, and all matters resolved for the year+. There are too many offers, "if you have a moment before you go..." and I try to get a generous dose of spending time with people before focusing on packing/planning.
As usual, the bags were packed just before leaving, and some things just didn't get done. My folks drove me to the airport, as they always have, and we had time to spare. One last Canadian beer in the airport bar, then into the gate to wait for boarding. Passing that security gate to me, is like stepping on the ice. You put your game face on, you are travelling. I do my routine empty pockets of metal, put my carry on bag through the x-ray machine and slowly step through the metal detector. I have gotten into this routine where I am very efficient at it, and usually raise no suspicion. I usually grab something at duty free, then wander a while down to the gate and put my thoughts to ink in my journal. They usually say something like this:
"Waiting for the plane departing from Toronto for another, 9, 12, 15 months. Seeing the usual faces around the gate. The frustrated business traveller giving the assistant a hard time. The mother of three children trying to control them. The in love couple ending a vacation. The elderly couple flying for the first time, going to see their children. I've seen these same faces are seen in Nairobi, Amsterdam, and Sri Lanka.

We board, "Good evening" is spread around the seats as you meet your travel companions, and off we go.

I arrived in Paris, CDG airport, and decided to head downtown for a little glimpse of Paris before catching my train south to Avignon. I only had time to drop my bags at a locker and get to La Seine river and view the Eiffel Tower in the distance. Also, I saw the Notre Dame cathedral in the distance, but wow it was impressively big. I think in the new year I will try to go to Paris for the weekend.

A couple of photos, then off to the station to get the TGV to Avignon. (TGV, Train Grande Vitas = High Speed Train) Wow, this thing can fly! We travelled from Paris, to Avignon (500 KM) in just over 2 1/2 hours!

I arrived in Avignon, and met up with Madam Rosy Michel, the lady of the house I am staying with. She has two sons, and a companion George. George and one of her sons lives with us in the house. After quick, simple introductions and a tour, I decided to get a little nap in before dinner. When I woke, the whole house was filled with a rich flavour coming from the kitchen. My nose woke me up and demanded I go to the kitchen. I got there, just as dinner was ready. It was great! Most nights dinner goes something like this:- We sit down to a salad and some bread. (The salads vary from lettuce, to tuna, to endive, to other interesting tasty salads.)- Sometimes they provide wine, sometimes I buy wine. The wine here is good, for not that much money.- A casserole is then brought out, along with other vegetables, potatoes, broccoli, etc. The casserole usually has lots of cheese on/in it too. More fresh bread is spread around as well.- After the main dish, the cheese comes out, along with more bread.- Sometimes after the cheese, there is a dessert, like puddings, fruits or candied fruits.

I think the stereotype of lots of wine, cheese, and bread is very true. And why not, it is sooo good here, and cheap. Usually for lunch, I buy a baguette, some cheese, tomatoes and meats, all for under $5 cdn. There are many good wines I buy for under $4 a bottle. As this is the end of my time off work, and money is a bit tighter, I am very happy that my quality of life has not had to suffer.

So, usually in the mornings I'm up by 7:30, heading to school by 8:30, after a little breakfast and tea. It takes me 20 minutes to walk to school, through a maze of streets in the interior of Avignon.

Avignon is a small town, but absolutely beautiful. In the middle ages, there was some complication with the Vatican (my French isn't good enough yet to get the story right), and a Pope came to Avignon to stay here. After him, another Pope, and a few more stayed here. As such, they built incredible palaces here. I was thinking before I got here, sounds interesting, a big palace, that's always nice to see, BUT THIS IS A BIG PALACE, VERY NICE TO SEE. It is a protected site with UNESCO (UN body for protection of historic sites around the world) and it should be. Today I am going there with my camera to take some photos, as it is just too big and incredible for words.

From the top of the hill where the Palace is, there is a lookout where you can overlook part of the town, and the "Closed Valley" called Valcuse. This is the valley closed in by a chain of mountains to the East. To the west, there is a fort facing Avignon, where the King of France built a fort to keep an eye on the Pope, and a little further on, there is a vineyard, Chateau Neuf du Pape. I will be going there soon, as this wine has some significance to me.
Avignon is surrounded by a big wall. Inside there is a maze of streets, and outside things are easier to navigate with. Fortunately, if you are lost in the town, just keep walking till you hit the wall and follow it to a landmark. (I think they build the wall more for people to find their way home after a night on the town, than for protection.)

Class starts at 9:00 everyday. I have been in various different classes, ranging from private lessons, to a group of about 10 people, depending on the teachers, and lessons for that day. It has been somewhat frustrating that there seems to be less people my level, but that is changing as more people leave, and other more basic people come in.

Class goes for 2 hours, then a break, then another 1.5 hours. In the afternoons there are excursions and films to see. I am happy with the school, now that I have finally gotten in the right class. Before I was way over my head.

In the evenings, I get those great dinners and some good advice from George and Madam Rosy about homework.

All in all, I am learning, though it is difficult at times.

On the weekends, I have visited two places near here, Aix en Provence, and Marseille. Wonderful places too.

I like this place in France. I find there are people not only eating great food, but spending the time to enjoy it. In a café, the server may not rush to get your order for 10-15 minutes after you arrive. But as well, after your drinks, you are not rushed out of the place either. Dinner out on town is served late, and served long. I have left restaurants after midnight a couple times, as there was no rush, and the owner kept suggesting other things to eat, or drink.

I recently received a job description from MSF to work in a French country in Africa. I want to work in a Francophone country to learn more, so this should maybe work out. The project sounds big, but each time I have taken on a contract with them, the duties and responsibilities have always increased, maybe this isn't any different. The one main concern I (and MSF) have, is my level of French. It isn't good now, and it is needed to be good. I still have 7 more weeks of class to improve it, and a couple weeks later to refine it, but that is it. I'm really tossed on this decision. I will keep you updated.

Well, the temperature here is between 5 and 10 degrees most days. People are still sitting outside (under heaters) sipping coffee or tea. To fit the small streets, and the high price of gas, the average size car could fit into an average sized SUV at home. There is this one car that can go 100km on 3.9 litres of gas. Maybe that is downhill with a tail wind, but still, it is nice to be back in an environment where that sort of thing is advertised and discussed. (Along with some low energy appliances, and many energy conservation considerations around the house.)
It is Sunday today, the sun is shining, the temperature nice. I'm going to finish now and head on for some walking around, maybe stop by a café for a tea and some study. Take care all,

Love,

Steve