South Sudan Journal, Parts 14, 15 & 16 (of 29)

Message #14 November 22, 2003


Hi Mom, thanks for the email.

I'm glad your students got a chuckle about the animal tukel, I certainly chuckled a little too when I found out where we were.

As for a quick Christmas list, I have some ideas. Spices and cooking recipes are good ones. We have been stuck in Wudier a lot longer than anticipated, and we are now down to 8 cans (4 of which are hot dogs), yet, everyone is still complimenting me on my cooking. (I have been doing more of the cooking, since they are still busy in the clinic.) Also, last night our propane just ran out, and I have been cooking over the fire now. Also, another NGO came here, and today I went over to help repair their radio, and they gave us some food. (It sounds more desperate than it is. We have another chicken for tonight, and now some veggies to go with it. Thinking about back home, I sometimes go camping (cooking over a fire) back home, this is just a little different.

As for the beer, we did drink it. We had a cow on Monday night, and we were suppose to get a load of food (and a hidden case of beer) sent on someone else's flight. So, what better occassion than 100kgs of beef cooking over the fire, to crack open the (single) beer. The plane never came. That wasn't too bad, because we were going to head out on Wednesday, but that plane got held up too. Tomorrow, there will be a plane, (even though there were some thunderclouds last night...) Good thing we are pretty patient, and we only have to look through the fence to realise we still eat much better than EVERYONE else here. (No I'm not fatter, just relative to people here, I am the fattest.)

I never thought of using beer for the yeast. When I am back in Lankien, I will try that one. It is funny, the medical staff is only women, and I think they, humourously, miss me and have a, "Steve can do anything!" attitude. These last few weeks, over the radio they have called with questions about different logistical things, and I have always had a good answer for them. I think they think I can really do anything. Anyway, it will encourage that myth by rising bread using the barest of ingredients, like beer; ha that will be funny! (I already have a bunch of recipies ready for the team there, including pigs in a blanket (canned hot dogs, wrapped in flour dough, cooked in oil), other sweet treats made of flour dough cooked in oil filled with jam, sugar, honey, etc. also chippattis, etc

I am pleased that the UN is looking after the welfare of MSF folks and YOU in particular. I'm sure by the time that you get this email, you will either be heading back to Lankien or staying where you are or ????

I'm still in Wudier, but planning to be back in Lankien tomorrow afternoon. That will be nice. Even though things are very relaxed here, I know there is lots of work for me there. Also, I want to get back to the math lessons, and some other project related work. And, I don't like the feeling of leaving the staff. When they heard I was heading to Wudier, they sounded disappointed. I told them I would try my best to get back soon, and now it is 3 weeks later, instead of 12 days.

I am planning to try and send you a little something for Christmas. Again I am at a loss of what to send. Quick with any suggestions, Steve, or you'll have to wait.

Besides the stuff above, I will call you when I am back in Nairobi (27th or 28th of Nov). I'll be out on R&R then, and will have a better idea of what I cannot buy in Nairobi. Having little sweets and treats, and some good reading is the stuff I miss most. As for clothing, it will all deteriorate anyway, so the stuff I have is good for now, and as far as other stuff, I'm going to try Nairobi first. I do wish I could send you some stuff cheaper. Maybe if I find a cash-on-delivery shipper, I can send you some things.

Sometimes doing hands on projects are a wonderful change of pace for me.

For me too. This project definitely has hands on stuff, relative to Sri Lanka. In Sri Lanka, I touched a hammer twice, and tinkered with things very rarely. Here, everyday there is something that needs my hands, and no one else with the skills to do it.

I never did ask Cathy about the little bonnets for the newborns. Is that still a good idea? What size would they be? It is helpful to know how large to make them. Circumference of the head and how long/deep. Let me know if I should go any further with this idea.

I think a circumference of 35-40 cms (maybe a variety of sizes near that range) and a similar radius deep, would be good. We have closed the feeding centre, so many of the children won't be there, but we still have 300 or so patients, and tons of kids around that can use them. Maybe I'll take 10-15 for now, and once they get here, if they are popular I'll request some more. I'm a little upset that I haven't found the right time to give a bear to a child. It is just that if I give one, then I feel I will upset the balance of things. Already I have seen some gifts causing fights between people, and I don't want to start that. So, for now I have kept the bears to myself, and will keep my eye open for the right time. (In Sri Lanka, I could have given hundreds of them by now, all to the right kids.) I will bring a bunch with me on R&R, and maybe treat a kid on a street or something.

Are you still planning, hoping, to get away in January and meet up with Christina for a holiday? If so, where would you go? For how long? Are her plans coming along to join the Red Cross or other organization late winter? I'm sure that you and she are getting very good, and perhaps better than most, at GOING WITH THE FLOW! ----whatever that means!.

Well, there was some news from ICRC that she would have to do an introductary course with ICRC in May. That doesn't work with our timing at all. We were hoping she would be out here at the end of January for holidays, then in March maybe for a 3 month contract with ICRC in Loki. Since that fell through, we are looking at the other MSF sections (France, Belguim, Spain, Switzerland) for other positions in South Sudan, ending
around June. I'll be done around June, and it would be nice if she was done then too, and we could travel for a little while here too before heading home.

As for where to, for the holiday. We are both thinking Zanzibar for some beach and maybe scuba diving too. Otherwise there are a couple of mountains in Kenya, and maybe even a Safari too. It is funny, we are very good at going with the flow. Our vacations so far have not been planned so well, however we have always had exceptional times.

Peter is wondering how many people are emailing you at this time. Is that too many or would you like more? Your father is like the director and can probably increase or cool the emails. Your feedback would be great.

There are a lot of emails coming in, it is quite nice. I wouldn't want to discourage it, but I wouldn't encourage it any more. If people ask if they can send anything, letters in the mail are ALWAYS great!

Well this teacher has two sets of marking to do tonight.

Alright Mom, have a good time doing those reports, and thank you for writing. Know that I am doing well, and I'm healthy too (though I shaved off all those German Beers I was carrying around my mid-section). I love you lots,
Steve




Message #15 November 29, 2003



Hello Mom and Dad, I am in balmy Mombasa, on the coast of Kenya. It is 0930 here, and probably 0130 there. I tried calling last night, (yesterday morning to you) but the time zones are making it difficult to connect.

In a few minutes, I'll be heading south to Tiwi Beach, for my relaxo. But, I thought I'd just send a quick one.

I left Lankien in the morning on Wednesday. The Casa (our most used plane) came by, right on time. Over the time that the team was out, we didn't get any supplies in, and therefore we ran out of almost everything. Plus, WFP wouldn't land there for a while. Food distribution on Tuesday went very easily, with no lentils, no oil, but just maize, unimix and soap. Also, we are out of other things we give the patients, blankets, mosquito nets, cups, etc. We were only out for a couple weeks, but I have been having problems getting enough flights to keep a buffer stock, and it is apparent now how important that is. So, the casa came in, off loaded enough to keep the project going for the rest of the week (approx 2000kgs). Later that day it would return with another load, plus WFP was coming with another 6500kgs, plus on Friday we chartered another buffalo for another 8000kgs, and WFP said they might try to bring another load on the weekend. It would feel good to have a buffer again.

So, with Lindsay (nurse also heading on R&R), Evert, Annagret, Yoseph, and Rob, we took off, and not fast enough. I have been looking forward to this R&R for a while.

We flew low, since we were dropping off Evert, Annagret, Yoseph and Rob in a place called Pierri. Over the last couple of weeks, we sent a health worker to that area to collect some Kala Azar data. He returned with some DAT tests to be looked at by the lab. 70% of those test, were positive for Kala Azar. In our clinic, only after review of a patient, by a more educated health worker, can they get tested, and we only have a 60% positive rate. Either this worker' abilities to find Kala Azar cases is exceptional, or there are some big problems in Pierri. So, a team was dropped off to do some more tests, and determine what sort of intervention if any can/should be done. One problem with this area is many people do not want to come to Lankien (the different clan thing).

So, off with the team, then off we went, Loki-bound!

The Casa is a great plane. It is run by Turbine Air, (a small operation that services most of the MSF projects there.) They always make sure there are cold drinks in the cooler, and hot samosas in the Tupperware. Plus, you can walk around, look over the pilots shoulder as he explains different things, or you can re-arrange things to make a platform to lie down and sleep on.

We got to Loki, and found out there was a flight south to Nairobi in a couple of hours. So, quickly to the compound, shower change into the nicer cloths I left there, then back to the airport. Loki is really dusty and hot. By the time we got on the plane, we were back to our dusty selves again.

In Loki, I started seeing some things that made me realize I had been out for some time. Money, cars, windows, fridge (what a holy thing that is!), shops, plastic, metal, cloths that cover, other white people, etc.

We got to Nairobi, and a MSF driver picked us up right outside the main gate. Man, there are a lot of touts looking for a fare. Even when we had a driver, clearly leading us to the car, others were offering us lifts.

Back to the guest house, then after saying hello to Arjan (Head of Mission) and his family, we headed out for a night on the town with Charlie (Logistic Coordinator) Lief (nurse heading home) Lindsey and myself. We had a good long night out. I could hardy believe the time travel I did that day.

The next day after a long sleep in, I did some shopping, then some emails, then got on the night train to Mombasa. With my shopping, I picked up a cheap Swahili phrase book. So far, it is treating me very well. On the train, I learned a few phrases, and practiced with the waiters. (The train was very nice. I got a cabin for myself which worked very well for me.) We arrived at 0830, and I put on my game face, and braved out to find some accomodation. I always find it an exciting and challenging time, to walk out of a station into an unknown town. I briefed up with a lonely planet book, and I had a good idea of major landmarks, three recommended places to stay and where the main square is.

I got to the gate to leave, and it was full of taxi drivers, waiting to prey on some Mosumgu (white guy). I looked around, oh, that must be for me, (I was the only one.)

"Hello, my friend, how are you?""sijambo, asente." ("Good thank you" Shoot did I say it right?)
"I will drive you, you need a taxi!" (He said, but with less confidence than before.)
"Hapana asente." ("No thank you." How about that, is it working?)
"No, taxi? Do you have accomodation my friend?" (Less confidence)
"Naam, asente." (Yes, thank you.)
"Have a good day my friend." (That was the fastest I have ever cleared the crowds at a train station. I must learn more!

Well, I found an internet cafe, and through talking to the owner got a good rate to call home and use a computer. Through further discussions he gave me some better advice on accomodation and food. "Shucoran." I said, ("Thank you", he was Arabic.) He smiled too, and replied something else, I must learn more Arabic too.

The town is nice, but I'll write about that later. I have a ride to the beach now, so I must get going. They probably don't have email there, so I'll write in a couple of days.

All is very well, I'm glad to be out to rest,

Lots of Love,
Steve
Message #16 December 1, 2003


Hello Mom and Dad

Did someone say December? I cannot believe that one; it is far too hot to be December!

Well, maybe not. I again am lining up to miss out on another Canadian winter. Just for fun, we showed some photos of snow to a couple of people in the project. First, photos are a black magic thing, so white stuff covering it all is just a little step beyond that. Al­ready they are seeing magical medical things performed by aliens that come out of an air­craft (UFOs, until someone explained what they were to them), why not snow. In return, I see the same faces of skepticism around the table when someone explained to us how the monkey and the lion became friends, and how a snake and a human mated to form crocs and lizards. Is religion just another step into the unbelievable from what is known?

So, I just got back from Twiga Hotel, on Tiwi Beach, south of Mombasa. That was very nice, but getting there was a little hassle. I learned another good lesson in traveling. When I wasn't looking, I handed over 300 shillings (a few USD) to a fella that I thought I could trust, and saw him casually walk away, never to bring back that taxi he talked so smoothly about. If it were more money, I would have held my ground, if it were another person, I wouldn't have, if it were Sunday not Saturday, if it were this, if it were that.... but it wasn't. I even thought as he walked away, I hope that gets a good amount of food for him and his family (if he actually had a family), for I think this is the last time I will see him. And it was. As Jim mentioned to me once, (roughly remembered) "there is not much personal about robbery (I assume the same about conning money off me goes) in a less developed country. You know they are hungry, and your money probably is better spent with them." Looking at it now, that is true. I don't wish the guy any harm, and if I wanted to blame anyone I would look at the guy who handed him the money… me.

That was the beginning. Not a big deal, a few dollars, a little pride, and a lack of clo­sure. I think I said a small prayer for him, something nice (I think that was more for my closure than his sake) and walked away. Now, I need to get to Tiwi beach again.

I started looking around for a quiet place to consult my lonely planet book for a price and recommended bus. In the meantime, dozens of helpful people were there to "give me a good price" to wherever I wanted to go. "Tiwi Beach, for you my friend, 3000 shillings, regular price 4000." "Ah, but Mutatu is very very cheaper." I probingly reply. "Ah, you are smart, okay, business is slow, I give you Mutatu price, 1500 shillings." "I'll consider, thank you, I'm going for a walk now." "1400 last price..." as I walked away. Same from 10 other people. It is hard work to walk around.

At this Internet cafe I have been using, I have been talking a lot to the owner. He has been very helpful in giving me information, and I have been helpful in using his com­puters, drinking his drinks, etc for two days straight. I got back here, and got his quotes. "The best way, Mutatu. Probably 35-40 shillings will get you there."
I have long since learned to delay a reaction to prices, since I usually have to do some math to put it into terms I understand. How many dollars in a shilling, how many Suda­nese Dinar in a bar of soap, how many salt for a chicken, how many cows for a wife (kidding, I know it isn't a trade; just an agreement between the husband and the father, ha ha.)

So, the price dropped from 1400 to 40 shillings pretty quick, and armed with this info, I proceeded to find a Mutatu for the beach.

Mutatus are funny things. I think there is a budget means of transportation in every country, at least every country without strong transportation safety laws. In Guatemala, the Chicken Bus (converted US yellow school bus, that fits more Guate then a crate of sardines, and drives like it is stolen). In Sri Lanka, the little Tuk Tuk, (a three wheeled powered Rick Shaw, also driven like it was stolen, but these probably were stolen.) and here is the Mutatu, a mini van, somewhere in the middle of those two; drives in and out of traffic like a Tuk Tuk, but fits a full cargo like a Chicken Bus. They are everywhere, cost nothing, and as they drive in and out of traffic, they are magically protected by an invisible force field, they have loud horns, louders touts (attendants to collect money and encourage optimum seating) and can always fit, "just one more."

(On the ride back in today, we stopped and five people got out of the back seats behind me. (there are 8 actual seats there) I turned around, to see who was left remaining, and there were still 10 people in the seats, and a couple of kids on their laps, all pretty squeezed in. They all had straight faces on, like they were not going to tell me the secret to the 100 clowns in the Mutatu routine. I had to put on my "delay a reaction until I can do the math" face. I turned around silent, watched other Mutatus pass, and confirmed there were really only 8 seats there, and then I declared another wonder of the (my) world, just happened in my presence.)

Well, it is getting on time to take the train to Nairobi. I'll be taking the same night train back there. It is a little expensive, but a couple nice meals and a bed for the night, makes it worth it. I hope I get a cabin for myself again, this mid-day heat has turned my freshly showered Irish Springs Steve, into a less desired Canadian in a hot humid climate when he was rather designed to be walking barefoot in the snow instead. We'll see.

So, back to Nairobi tomorrow morning, then a day or two there for some work, and here how things are going in Lankien. Then back to Loki for some work with the folks there, and Lankien by the 6th.

I'll try again to call, once I get a phone at a time you are awake.

Lots of Love.
Steve